bally
Die hard MF'er
Heeft er iemand xenon op zijn speed triple gebouwd. Zo ja waar heb je de kleine ballast gelaten? (dubbele koplamp). Effe een vraag zodat het wiel niet opnieuw uitgevonden hoeft te worden.
xenon bouwen op speed triple 2002
- Onderwerp starter bally
- Startdatum
je beseft toch dat xenon inbouwen gevaarlijk kan zijn als je de reflector achter het lampje niet vervangt? xenon heeft namelijk een ander straalpatroon dan een gewone lamp en het zal dan wel lijken dat je "beter" kan zien omdat alles 50 meter voor je beter verlicht wordt maar eigelijk verblind dat licht alleen jezelf, verkleinen je pupillen en zie je geen steek wanneer je verder dan de lichtbundel probeert te kijken.
vergelijk het met het rijden in een dichte mist zonder dat je beseft dat je erin rijd. je past je snelheid niet aan, denkt verder dan normaal te kunnen zien en dan ineens 60 meter voor je een obstakel. succes met te reageren.
vergelijk het met het rijden in een dichte mist zonder dat je beseft dat je erin rijd. je past je snelheid niet aan, denkt verder dan normaal te kunnen zien en dan ineens 60 meter voor je een obstakel. succes met te reageren.
StreetCore
Die hard MF'er
huh? wat een onzin dat je de reflector moet aanpassen achter de lamp.
xenon heeft nagenoeg hetzelfde brandpunt als halogeen.
Hooguit dat je je koplamp iets moet bijstellen maar de reflector vervangen daar heb ik nog nooit van gehoord
en een reflector vervangen voor wat een xenon reflector ?
xenon heeft nagenoeg hetzelfde brandpunt als halogeen.
Hooguit dat je je koplamp iets moet bijstellen maar de reflector vervangen daar heb ik nog nooit van gehoord
en een reflector vervangen voor wat een xenon reflector ?
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huh? wat een onzin dat je de reflector moet aanpassen achter de lamp.
xenon heeft nagenoeg hetzelfde brandpunt als halogeen.
Hooguit dat je je koplamp iets moet bijstellen maar de reflector vervangen daar heb ik nog nooit van gehoord
en een reflector vervangen voor wat een xenon reflector ?
Xenon heeft niet hetzelfde brandpunt als halogeen, want het brandpunt van halogeen zit op de plek van de gloeispiraal, en xenon geeft licht over de volle lengte van de lamp.
Maar je hebt inderdaad wel gelijk dat als je de koplamp goed afstelt, er niets aan de hand is.
Ik denk dat je op een Speed Triple erg weinig ruimte hebt voor de ballast.
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StreetCore
Die hard MF'er
Ik zit met hetzelfde probleem,heb nog wel eraan gedacht om de ballast onder de buddy seat te bouwen en de kabels van de starters te verlengen.
Helaas heb ik hier niet echt positiefe verhalen over gehoord.....
Helaas heb ik hier niet echt positiefe verhalen over gehoord.....
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StreetCore
Die hard MF'er
kijk anders hier nog ff: xenon verlengen met verlengkabels hoeveel is toegestaan...
en als je hebt ingebouwd dan graag ff pictures !
suc6!
en als je hebt ingebouwd dan graag ff pictures !
suc6!
chielmi
MF veteraan
. Lamp gewoon goed afstellen na monteren van Xenon. het probleem is dat dat extra licht niet terecht komt waar het zou moeten komen. het komt voor jou op de weg terecht en jah dat zie je. en dan kan je van die fotos van "voor" en "na" gaan trekken, ze hier op het forum posten en zeggen "kijk eens wat een licht"
maar eigelijk is dat gewoon gevaarlijk! dat teveel licht zorgt ervoor dat jij zelf minder ziet!
maar eigelijk is dat gewoon gevaarlijk! dat teveel licht zorgt ervoor dat jij zelf minder ziet!
Rambabbel
MF veteraan
Mijn collega heeft xenon op zijn speed triple 1050, zal hem eens vragen waar ze zitten (beide lampen heeft ie xenon).
StreetCore
Die hard MF'er
in ieder geval niet voor je op de weg. omdat zon hid lampje op een andere plaats en op een andere manier licht afgeeft zal de reflector niet voldoen om het licht op een effectieve manier te versprijden. het licht moet in de verte versprijd worden zodat je MEER ziet. wanneer het licht op de weg voor je versprijd wordt ga jij meer licht zien, verkleine je pupillen en zie je buiten het licht op de weg NIETS meer. een vals veiligheidsgevoel dus.
als je naar xenon wilt gaan ga dan dus niet zon ombouw kitje aanschaffen maar koop een volledige koplamp incl aangepaste reflector
als je naar xenon wilt gaan ga dan dus niet zon ombouw kitje aanschaffen maar koop een volledige koplamp incl aangepaste reflector
RoYku
MF veteraan
Klinkt mij als een broodje aap verhaal.
Niet alle halogeenlampen hebben immers dezelfde inbouw diepte.
Moet ik ook hiervoor een nieuwe koplamp unit kopen?
Overigens vind ik je verhaal over puppillen ver gezocht...
Ik word immers ook niet verblind van een lantaarnpaal in het pikdonker?
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Ik doe al jaren xenon en het brandpunt is zeker niet anders en zal ook verder geen problemen opleveren. Het komt wel verder en daardoor lijkt het dat de lampen te hoog staan afgesteld. dit is bij auto's het geval en bij onze motorfietsen ook.
Advies is netjes monteren de xenon en zonder aanpassingen en rijden maar. wil je zeker zijn dat hjet geen tegenliggers (lijkt) te verblinden kan je de koplampen wat lager afstellen en je probleem is verholpen.
suc6 met de inbouw.
Advies is netjes monteren de xenon en zonder aanpassingen en rijden maar. wil je zeker zijn dat hjet geen tegenliggers (lijkt) te verblinden kan je de koplampen wat lager afstellen en je probleem is verholpen.
suc6 met de inbouw.
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http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...nversions.html
Thinking of converting to HID?
So you've read about HID headlamps and have it in mind to convert your car. A few mouse clicks on the web, and you've found a couple of outfits offering to sell you a "conversion" that will fit any car with a given type of halogen bulb. STOP! Put away that credit card.
An HID kit consists of HID ballasts and bulbs for "retrofitting" into a halogen headlamp. Often, these products are advertised using the name of a reputable lighting company ("Real Philips kit! Real Osram kit! Real Hella kit!") to try to give the potential buyer the illusion of legitimacy. Fact: While some of the components in these kits are sometimes manufactured by the companies mentioned, the components aren't being put to their designed or intended use. Reputable companies like Philips, Osram, Hella, etc. never endorse this kind of "retrofit" usage of their products.
Halogen headlamps and HID headlamps require very different optics to produce a safe and effective—not to mention legal—beam pattern. How come? Because of the very different characteristics of the two kinds of light source.
A halogen bulb has a cylindrical light source: the glowing filament. The space immediately surrounding the cylinder of light is completely dark, and so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is along the edges of the cylinder of light. The ends of the filament cylinder fade from bright to dark. An HID bulb, on the other hand, has a crescent-shaped light source -- the arc. It's crescent-shaped because as it passes through the space between the two electrodes, its heat causes it to try to rise. The space immediately surrounding the crescent of light glows in layers...the closer to the crescent of light, the brighter the glow. The ends of the arc crescent are the brightest points, and immediately beyond these points is completely dark, so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is at the ends of the crescent of light.
When designing the optics (lens and/or reflector) for a lamp, the characteristics of the light source are the driving factor around which everything else must be engineered. If you go and change the light source, you've done the equivalent of putting on somebody else's eyeglasses: You can probably make them fit on your face OK, but you won't see properly.
You can read some of DOT's statements on the subject here, here, here, and here — all links will open in new windows. And you can read the German perspective here, and the same from Hong Kong here. Some "HID kit" marketeers will try to tell you that the kits are technically illegal only because the US headlamp laws are stuck in the past. That's wrong; the world's experts and regulators all say the same thing: Don't!
Now, what about those "retrofit" jobs in which the beam cutoff still appears sharp? Don't be fooled; it's an error to judge a beam pattern solely by its cutoff. In many lamps, especially the projector types, the cutoff will remain the same regardless of what light source is behind it. Halogen bulb, HID capsule, cigarette lighter, firefly, hold it up to the sun—whatever. That's because of the way a projector lamp works. The cutoff is simply the projected image of a piece of metal running side-to-side behind the lens. Where the optics come in is in distributing the light under the cutoff. And, as with all other automotive lamps (and, in fact, all optical instruments), the optics are calculated based not just on where the light source is within the lamp (focal length) but also the specific photometric characteristics of the light source...which parts of it are brighter, which parts of it are darker, where the boundaries of the light source are, whether the boundaries are sharp or fuzzy, the shape of the light source, and so forth.
As if the optical mismatch weren't reason enough to drop the idea of "retrofitting" an HID bulb where a halogen one belongs—and it is!—there are even more reasons why not to do it. Here are some of them:
The only available arc capsules have a longitudinal arc (arc path runs front to back) on the axis of the bulb, but many popular halogen headlamp bulbs, such as 9004, 9007, H3 and H12, use a filament that is transverse (side-to-side) and/or offset (not on the axis of the bulb) central axis of the headlamp reflector). In this case, it is impossible even to roughly approximate the position and orientation of the filament with a "retrofit" HID capsule. Just because your headlamp might use an axial-filament bulb, though, doesn't mean you've jumped the hurdles—the laws of optical physics don't bend even for the cleverest marketing department, nor for the catchiest HID "retrofit" kit box.
A relatively new gimmick is HID arc capsules set in an electromagnetic base so that they shift up and down or back and forth. These are being marketed as "dual beam" kits that claim to address the loss of high beam with fixed-base "retrofits" in place of dual-filament halogen bulbs like 9004, 9007, H4, and H13. A cheaper variant of this is one that uses a fixed HID bulb with a halogen bulb strapped or glued to the side of it...yikes! What you wind up with is two poorly-formed beams, at best. The reason the original equipment market has not adopted the movable-capsule designs they've been playing with since the mid 1990s is because it is impossible to control the arc position accurately so it winds up in the same position each and every time.
In the original-equipment field, there are single-capsule dual-beam systems appearing ("BiXenon", etc.), but these all rely on a movable optical shield, or movable reflector—the arc capsule stays in one place. The Original Equipment engineers have a great deal of money and resources at their disposal, and if a movable capsule were a practical way to do the job, they'd do it. The "retrofit" kits certainly don't address this problem anywhere near satisfaction. And even if they did, remember: Whether a fixed or moving-capsule "retrofit" is contemplated, solving the arc-position problem and calling it good is like going to a hospital with two broken ribs, a sprained ankle and a crushed toe and having the nurse say "Well, you're free to go home now, we've put your ankle in a sling!" Focal length (arc/filament positioning) is only just ONE issue out of several.
The most dangerous part of the attempt to "retrofit" Xenon headlamps is that sometimes you get a deceptive and illusory "improvement" in the performance of the headlamp. The performance of the headlamp is perceived to be "better" because of the much higher level of foreground lighting (on the road immediately in front of the car). However, the beam patterns produced by this kind of "conversion" virtually always give less distance light, and often an alarming lack of light where there's meant to be a relative maximum in light intensity. The result is the illusion that you can see better than you actually can, and that's not safe.
It's tricky to judge headlamp beam performance without a lot of knowledge, a lot of training and a lot of special equipment, because subjective perceptions are very misleading. Having a lot of strong light in the foreground, that is on the road close to the car and out to the sides, is very comforting and reliably produces a strong impression of "good headlights". The problem is that not only is foreground lighting of decidedly secondary importance when travelling much above 30 mph, but having a very strong pool of light close to the car causes your pupils to close down, worsening your distance vision...all the while giving you this false sense of security. This is to say nothing of the massive amounts of glare to other road users and backdazzle to you, the driver, that results from these "retrofits".
HID headlamps also require careful weatherproofing and electrical shielding because of the high voltages involved. These unsafe "retrofits" make it physically possible to insert an HID bulb where a halogen bulb belongs, but this practice is illegal and dangerous, regardless of claims by these marketers that their systems are "beam pattern corrected" or the fraudulent use of established brand names to try to trick you into thinking the product is legitimate. In order to work correctly and safely, HID headlamps must be designed from the start as HID headlamps.
What about the law, what does it have to say on the matter? In virtually every first-world country, HID "retrofits" into halogen headlamps are illegal. They're illegal clear across Europe and in all of the many countries that use European ECE headlight regulations. They're illegal in the US and Canada. Some people dismiss this because North American regulations, in particular, are written in such a manner as to reject a great many genuinely good headlamps. Nevertheless, on the particular count of HID "retrofits" into halogen headlamps, the world's regulators and engineers all say DON'T!
The only safe and legitimate HID retrofit is one that replaces the entire headlamp—that is lens, reflector, bulb...the whole system—with optics designed for HID usage. In the aftermarket, it is possible to get clever with the growing number of available products, such as Hella's modular projectors available in HID or halogen, and fabricate your own brackets and bezels, or to modify an original-equipment halogen headlamp housing to contain optical "guts" designed for HID usage (though it should be noted that "cooking" the lens off a composite headlamp, installing HID optics and re-sealing the lens creates major problems of its own, and does not result in a legal headlamp).
Thinking of converting to HID?
So you've read about HID headlamps and have it in mind to convert your car. A few mouse clicks on the web, and you've found a couple of outfits offering to sell you a "conversion" that will fit any car with a given type of halogen bulb. STOP! Put away that credit card.
An HID kit consists of HID ballasts and bulbs for "retrofitting" into a halogen headlamp. Often, these products are advertised using the name of a reputable lighting company ("Real Philips kit! Real Osram kit! Real Hella kit!") to try to give the potential buyer the illusion of legitimacy. Fact: While some of the components in these kits are sometimes manufactured by the companies mentioned, the components aren't being put to their designed or intended use. Reputable companies like Philips, Osram, Hella, etc. never endorse this kind of "retrofit" usage of their products.
Halogen headlamps and HID headlamps require very different optics to produce a safe and effective—not to mention legal—beam pattern. How come? Because of the very different characteristics of the two kinds of light source.
A halogen bulb has a cylindrical light source: the glowing filament. The space immediately surrounding the cylinder of light is completely dark, and so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is along the edges of the cylinder of light. The ends of the filament cylinder fade from bright to dark. An HID bulb, on the other hand, has a crescent-shaped light source -- the arc. It's crescent-shaped because as it passes through the space between the two electrodes, its heat causes it to try to rise. The space immediately surrounding the crescent of light glows in layers...the closer to the crescent of light, the brighter the glow. The ends of the arc crescent are the brightest points, and immediately beyond these points is completely dark, so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is at the ends of the crescent of light.
When designing the optics (lens and/or reflector) for a lamp, the characteristics of the light source are the driving factor around which everything else must be engineered. If you go and change the light source, you've done the equivalent of putting on somebody else's eyeglasses: You can probably make them fit on your face OK, but you won't see properly.
You can read some of DOT's statements on the subject here, here, here, and here — all links will open in new windows. And you can read the German perspective here, and the same from Hong Kong here. Some "HID kit" marketeers will try to tell you that the kits are technically illegal only because the US headlamp laws are stuck in the past. That's wrong; the world's experts and regulators all say the same thing: Don't!
Now, what about those "retrofit" jobs in which the beam cutoff still appears sharp? Don't be fooled; it's an error to judge a beam pattern solely by its cutoff. In many lamps, especially the projector types, the cutoff will remain the same regardless of what light source is behind it. Halogen bulb, HID capsule, cigarette lighter, firefly, hold it up to the sun—whatever. That's because of the way a projector lamp works. The cutoff is simply the projected image of a piece of metal running side-to-side behind the lens. Where the optics come in is in distributing the light under the cutoff. And, as with all other automotive lamps (and, in fact, all optical instruments), the optics are calculated based not just on where the light source is within the lamp (focal length) but also the specific photometric characteristics of the light source...which parts of it are brighter, which parts of it are darker, where the boundaries of the light source are, whether the boundaries are sharp or fuzzy, the shape of the light source, and so forth.
As if the optical mismatch weren't reason enough to drop the idea of "retrofitting" an HID bulb where a halogen one belongs—and it is!—there are even more reasons why not to do it. Here are some of them:
The only available arc capsules have a longitudinal arc (arc path runs front to back) on the axis of the bulb, but many popular halogen headlamp bulbs, such as 9004, 9007, H3 and H12, use a filament that is transverse (side-to-side) and/or offset (not on the axis of the bulb) central axis of the headlamp reflector). In this case, it is impossible even to roughly approximate the position and orientation of the filament with a "retrofit" HID capsule. Just because your headlamp might use an axial-filament bulb, though, doesn't mean you've jumped the hurdles—the laws of optical physics don't bend even for the cleverest marketing department, nor for the catchiest HID "retrofit" kit box.
A relatively new gimmick is HID arc capsules set in an electromagnetic base so that they shift up and down or back and forth. These are being marketed as "dual beam" kits that claim to address the loss of high beam with fixed-base "retrofits" in place of dual-filament halogen bulbs like 9004, 9007, H4, and H13. A cheaper variant of this is one that uses a fixed HID bulb with a halogen bulb strapped or glued to the side of it...yikes! What you wind up with is two poorly-formed beams, at best. The reason the original equipment market has not adopted the movable-capsule designs they've been playing with since the mid 1990s is because it is impossible to control the arc position accurately so it winds up in the same position each and every time.
In the original-equipment field, there are single-capsule dual-beam systems appearing ("BiXenon", etc.), but these all rely on a movable optical shield, or movable reflector—the arc capsule stays in one place. The Original Equipment engineers have a great deal of money and resources at their disposal, and if a movable capsule were a practical way to do the job, they'd do it. The "retrofit" kits certainly don't address this problem anywhere near satisfaction. And even if they did, remember: Whether a fixed or moving-capsule "retrofit" is contemplated, solving the arc-position problem and calling it good is like going to a hospital with two broken ribs, a sprained ankle and a crushed toe and having the nurse say "Well, you're free to go home now, we've put your ankle in a sling!" Focal length (arc/filament positioning) is only just ONE issue out of several.
The most dangerous part of the attempt to "retrofit" Xenon headlamps is that sometimes you get a deceptive and illusory "improvement" in the performance of the headlamp. The performance of the headlamp is perceived to be "better" because of the much higher level of foreground lighting (on the road immediately in front of the car). However, the beam patterns produced by this kind of "conversion" virtually always give less distance light, and often an alarming lack of light where there's meant to be a relative maximum in light intensity. The result is the illusion that you can see better than you actually can, and that's not safe.
It's tricky to judge headlamp beam performance without a lot of knowledge, a lot of training and a lot of special equipment, because subjective perceptions are very misleading. Having a lot of strong light in the foreground, that is on the road close to the car and out to the sides, is very comforting and reliably produces a strong impression of "good headlights". The problem is that not only is foreground lighting of decidedly secondary importance when travelling much above 30 mph, but having a very strong pool of light close to the car causes your pupils to close down, worsening your distance vision...all the while giving you this false sense of security. This is to say nothing of the massive amounts of glare to other road users and backdazzle to you, the driver, that results from these "retrofits".
HID headlamps also require careful weatherproofing and electrical shielding because of the high voltages involved. These unsafe "retrofits" make it physically possible to insert an HID bulb where a halogen bulb belongs, but this practice is illegal and dangerous, regardless of claims by these marketers that their systems are "beam pattern corrected" or the fraudulent use of established brand names to try to trick you into thinking the product is legitimate. In order to work correctly and safely, HID headlamps must be designed from the start as HID headlamps.
What about the law, what does it have to say on the matter? In virtually every first-world country, HID "retrofits" into halogen headlamps are illegal. They're illegal clear across Europe and in all of the many countries that use European ECE headlight regulations. They're illegal in the US and Canada. Some people dismiss this because North American regulations, in particular, are written in such a manner as to reject a great many genuinely good headlamps. Nevertheless, on the particular count of HID "retrofits" into halogen headlamps, the world's regulators and engineers all say DON'T!
The only safe and legitimate HID retrofit is one that replaces the entire headlamp—that is lens, reflector, bulb...the whole system—with optics designed for HID usage. In the aftermarket, it is possible to get clever with the growing number of available products, such as Hella's modular projectors available in HID or halogen, and fabricate your own brackets and bezels, or to modify an original-equipment halogen headlamp housing to contain optical "guts" designed for HID usage (though it should be noted that "cooking" the lens off a composite headlamp, installing HID optics and re-sealing the lens creates major problems of its own, and does not result in a legal headlamp).
maarja tis allemaal broodje aap en ik ben gek...
bok001
MF veteraan
Heb ik vrijdag al voor je gedaan
Hij heeft twee balasten aan elkaar geplakt en achter z'n flyscreen gemonteerd, voor de afwerking heeft die een rubberen randje gemonteerd. Gruwelijk mooie fiets overigens 
Rambabbel
MF veteraan
Heb ik vrijdag al voor je gedaan
Hehe...
Hele mooie fiets inderdaad. Wat een spulletjes heeft ie er op zitten! Maarja, als magazijnman zit hij natuurlijk ook wel dicht op het vuur... De meeste accesoires die we in de vitrine hebben liggen heeft ie eerst op zijn eigen motor geprobeert
Als je dat voordeel hebt moet je daar meteen (mis)(ge)bruik van maken natuurlijk
StreetCore
Die hard MF'er
feutoooooos!
A
Anoniempje313
Guest
Ik zal efkes helpen:
edit: ha ha, ik zie dat je de boel zelf al aangepast hebt!
edit: ha ha, ik zie dat je de boel zelf al aangepast hebt!
Laatst bewerkt door een moderator:
StreetCore
Die hard MF'er
ziet er goed uit!
