suzirider
Die hard MF'er
Ik heb ook de problemen als hieronder beschreven. Ik heb de tekst van www.gixxer.com forum gehaald. Het is Engels maar komt er op neer dat door het plaatsen van een 15K Ohm weerstand het haperen bij lage toeren in versnelling 1 t/m 4 weg is alsmede het zwaar afremmen op de motor bij lage snelheden. Als iemand dit al eens heeft geprobeerd laat even weten wat de resultaten waren. Anders is dit voor iedere GSXR600 (e.a.?) ter lering en vermaak. Ik ga het zelf dit weekend proberen en laat de resultaten nog wel weten.
CITAAT:
Here is your full instructions for the TRE (Timing Retard Elimination) Mod. This mod ONLY applies to fuel injected Gixxers. I have done it to my 01 600 with great results. Some peolpe with 750's haven't seen any noticable difference. Also, bikes equipped with a Power Commander see less noticable difference because, as far as I know or have heard, the Power Commander helps smooth the bike out anyway, so less noticable difference.
Also, there is a special situation with doing this mod on the Hyabusa and (possibly) the GSX-R1000. In this case, you must actually fool the bike into being in 5th gear, not 6th, so the top speed limiter is overided also. I honestly know nothing about this specail situation. If you own a 1000 or a Busa, ask one of those guys before trying this mod (or if you know what the hell I'm talking about, please respond below so the rest of the Busa and 1000 people have something to go on).
EXPLANATION:
Your ECU (the bike's fuel injection computer) takes readings from the sensors on the bike. Things like RPM, intake air pressure, throttle position, and the like, and computes how much fuel to inject into the cyclenders to make the bike run correctly.
As I understand it, the government got involved in this, but I'm not sure. At any rate, when you are in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gears, the computer figures out how much fuel to inject as usual, but, to limit torque, it backs off this amount and / or closes the secondary throttles a bit to limit your power. This is to keep torque down when you are in the lower gears. I guess it's to keep you from zipping around on the streets or whatever. It doesn't do this in the higher gears, because if you're in 4th gear or higher at low RPM's and nail it, you don't have much torque anyway.
The gear position sensor is a variable resistor. When in 1st gear it's like 500 ohms. When in 6th gear, it's about 15,000 ohms. So, if you clip the wires going to the ECU, and hook up a 15K ohm resistor, the ECU *THINKS* you are really in 6th gear all the time because it is sensing 15K ohm (6th gear) of your resistor rather than what the GPS is actually reading. So, when you roll on the gas, it puts out the full amount of power the engine is capable of.
That's basically the gist of it. It makes a difference in the feel of the bike. Ever notice that in 1st gear, you can rev to around 3K RPM, then nail the gas wide open, and the bike sort of hesistates? That is because of this built in retard. With the mod, you get power quicker and smoother. Also, when going slow on streets or in parking lots, when you close the gas you get a real hard engine braking. This is a whole lot less with the mod. It's just smoother all around.
INSTRUCTIONS:
You can do this mod one of two ways. You can either hard-wire it, which will cause the bike to be in "permanant" TRE overide mode. Or, you can wire it via a switch to change between factory mode and the TRE mode. I personally ride around in TRE mode 99.9% of the time. The bike will idle SLIGHTLY lower when the gas is closed in TRE mode, so the bike can be hard to start when cold in TRE mode. You can overcome this by using the choke. I sometimes ride with my wife on the back, so I will sometimes click into "factory mode" so the bike isn't quite as peppy when she is riding with me. If you can solder and don't mind playing with it for a little longer, go ahead and do the switch method.
PARTS NEEDED:
Tools-
You will need a small tip soldering iron and solder. These can be purchased for under $10 at Wal Mart or Target or whatever.
You will also need heat-shrink tubing to make it look nice. You can pick it up at Radio shack for a couple bucks for an assortment, or any auto parts store should stock it. You can use electrical tape in a pinch, but it looks like ass.
If you do the switchable version, I HIGHLY recomend you have a hot glue gun (use non electrical conductive glue though - regular hot glue off the shelf is non conductive). This is to seal the switch properly.
Parts-
You can find all the parts you need on the shelf at your local Radio Shack.
1 - 15K ohm Resistor
Radio Shack part number 271-1127 $0.49 for a pack of 5 resistors.
For the switchable version you will also need:
1 - DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) toggle switch
Radio Shack part number 275-626 $3.39
Or, if you don't solder very well, there is a slightly larger version which has larger solder posts with more space between it is-
Radio Shack part number 275-663 $3.59
For the switchable version, you'll also need some 22 GA wire, preferable in 2 different colors so you don't accidentally cross wires.
SCHEMATIC:
If you do the switchable version, here is the diagram of how to wire the switch:
(NO, this is NOT a type-o in the switch operaion. Because of the internals of the switch, when the toggle is UP it actally connects the center wires to the lower wires, and vice versa).
PROCEDURE:
Prop up your gas tank. You'll find several bundles of wires just in front of the rear shock & spring, behind the engine block. The bundle you are looking for has 3 wires - they are BLUE, PINK, and BLACK/White Stripe. The end going down into the nub at the transmission is the GPS end, and the end that goes back up into the wireing bundle is the ECU end.
Solder the connections like they are in the diagram. If you do the switchable version, run an x-accto knife between all the posts to make sure no solder globs contact other posts, then use hot glue to insulate the solder connections on the switch. Just pump it in between all the posts with the glue gun. This will help keep the delicate connections from braking, it will also keep them from shorting out, or from corroding from moisture.
If you hard wire it, take the loose wires from the GPS and tape them off, then tape or tie-wrap them back on the wire bundle so they don't flop around.
EINDE CITAAT
CITAAT:
Here is your full instructions for the TRE (Timing Retard Elimination) Mod. This mod ONLY applies to fuel injected Gixxers. I have done it to my 01 600 with great results. Some peolpe with 750's haven't seen any noticable difference. Also, bikes equipped with a Power Commander see less noticable difference because, as far as I know or have heard, the Power Commander helps smooth the bike out anyway, so less noticable difference.
Also, there is a special situation with doing this mod on the Hyabusa and (possibly) the GSX-R1000. In this case, you must actually fool the bike into being in 5th gear, not 6th, so the top speed limiter is overided also. I honestly know nothing about this specail situation. If you own a 1000 or a Busa, ask one of those guys before trying this mod (or if you know what the hell I'm talking about, please respond below so the rest of the Busa and 1000 people have something to go on).
EXPLANATION:
Your ECU (the bike's fuel injection computer) takes readings from the sensors on the bike. Things like RPM, intake air pressure, throttle position, and the like, and computes how much fuel to inject into the cyclenders to make the bike run correctly.
As I understand it, the government got involved in this, but I'm not sure. At any rate, when you are in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gears, the computer figures out how much fuel to inject as usual, but, to limit torque, it backs off this amount and / or closes the secondary throttles a bit to limit your power. This is to keep torque down when you are in the lower gears. I guess it's to keep you from zipping around on the streets or whatever. It doesn't do this in the higher gears, because if you're in 4th gear or higher at low RPM's and nail it, you don't have much torque anyway.
The gear position sensor is a variable resistor. When in 1st gear it's like 500 ohms. When in 6th gear, it's about 15,000 ohms. So, if you clip the wires going to the ECU, and hook up a 15K ohm resistor, the ECU *THINKS* you are really in 6th gear all the time because it is sensing 15K ohm (6th gear) of your resistor rather than what the GPS is actually reading. So, when you roll on the gas, it puts out the full amount of power the engine is capable of.
That's basically the gist of it. It makes a difference in the feel of the bike. Ever notice that in 1st gear, you can rev to around 3K RPM, then nail the gas wide open, and the bike sort of hesistates? That is because of this built in retard. With the mod, you get power quicker and smoother. Also, when going slow on streets or in parking lots, when you close the gas you get a real hard engine braking. This is a whole lot less with the mod. It's just smoother all around.
INSTRUCTIONS:
You can do this mod one of two ways. You can either hard-wire it, which will cause the bike to be in "permanant" TRE overide mode. Or, you can wire it via a switch to change between factory mode and the TRE mode. I personally ride around in TRE mode 99.9% of the time. The bike will idle SLIGHTLY lower when the gas is closed in TRE mode, so the bike can be hard to start when cold in TRE mode. You can overcome this by using the choke. I sometimes ride with my wife on the back, so I will sometimes click into "factory mode" so the bike isn't quite as peppy when she is riding with me. If you can solder and don't mind playing with it for a little longer, go ahead and do the switch method.
PARTS NEEDED:
Tools-
You will need a small tip soldering iron and solder. These can be purchased for under $10 at Wal Mart or Target or whatever.
You will also need heat-shrink tubing to make it look nice. You can pick it up at Radio shack for a couple bucks for an assortment, or any auto parts store should stock it. You can use electrical tape in a pinch, but it looks like ass.
If you do the switchable version, I HIGHLY recomend you have a hot glue gun (use non electrical conductive glue though - regular hot glue off the shelf is non conductive). This is to seal the switch properly.
Parts-
You can find all the parts you need on the shelf at your local Radio Shack.
1 - 15K ohm Resistor
Radio Shack part number 271-1127 $0.49 for a pack of 5 resistors.
For the switchable version you will also need:
1 - DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) toggle switch
Radio Shack part number 275-626 $3.39
Or, if you don't solder very well, there is a slightly larger version which has larger solder posts with more space between it is-
Radio Shack part number 275-663 $3.59
For the switchable version, you'll also need some 22 GA wire, preferable in 2 different colors so you don't accidentally cross wires.
SCHEMATIC:
If you do the switchable version, here is the diagram of how to wire the switch:
(NO, this is NOT a type-o in the switch operaion. Because of the internals of the switch, when the toggle is UP it actally connects the center wires to the lower wires, and vice versa).
PROCEDURE:
Prop up your gas tank. You'll find several bundles of wires just in front of the rear shock & spring, behind the engine block. The bundle you are looking for has 3 wires - they are BLUE, PINK, and BLACK/White Stripe. The end going down into the nub at the transmission is the GPS end, and the end that goes back up into the wireing bundle is the ECU end.
Solder the connections like they are in the diagram. If you do the switchable version, run an x-accto knife between all the posts to make sure no solder globs contact other posts, then use hot glue to insulate the solder connections on the switch. Just pump it in between all the posts with the glue gun. This will help keep the delicate connections from braking, it will also keep them from shorting out, or from corroding from moisture.
If you hard wire it, take the loose wires from the GPS and tape them off, then tape or tie-wrap them back on the wire bundle so they don't flop around.
EINDE CITAAT
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