Probleem met de gen2 is dat ze een te sterke dynamo en rotor hebben. 500w. Beste is om een 370w dynamo te kopen met bijbehorende rotor. Alleen dat kost een hoop geld. Wat je wel kan doen om de boel te ontlasten is dit
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Stators adn Rectifiers/Regulators. Share same symptoms, deciding where the problem lies is a £250 pound question.....the trick is to diagnose it and spend it on the correct item.....stator or rectifier....you could be unlucky and have to buy both! Whatever happens, do not buy a pattern stator......buy the aprilia one.
First symptom that you'll notice, if you dont use an Optimate charger for continued battery conditioning/charging:
1. Slow laboured starts. You may consider the soleniod as the cause, but look further before going down this route, also, be aware that continued starts with poor batteries may damage your sprag clutch.
2. Sometimes cuts out for no reason at tickover, but restarts ok.
What to look for:
1. Charging V on the dash...as an indication only; 13.2-13.4V at tickover (rises to 13.8ishV when revs go up) if it says 11.9 or less, its on the battery and not charging. Also measure the V at the battery, checking the battery connections are clean and secure.
What to do if V is 11-12 (or possibly less?):
2. check fuses, connections
3. Check wiring from stator to rectifier: Brown connector problems for the 3 phase cabling can melt and short the stator to the engine case, look on this forum for advice, Spoonz has posted some good stuff on this particular problem. 04-06 RSVs have 2 such connectors from stator to rectifier, check both. Also check connectors for corrosion/clean. New aprilia stators come with a longer lead removing one of the brown connetors.
If OK:
4. Check connector to recifier, should be 3 wires in (yellow) on a brown connector and 5 out on a white connector.
If looks OK, disconnect the white connector:
5. With engine running, measure V at white plug, if nothing, could be rectifier and or stator. If something like charging V of 13+ V, then could be stator only (sounds strange).
If V seems to be OK, this is under 'noload' conditons, reconnect the white connector.
Disconnect all head lights and measure charging V again...it may look OK as running the ECU and fuel pump is only about 1 Amp, so a dodgey stator may be able to supply this.
So if you have charging V with no load, and no charging V with load:
6. Check stator windings by measuring resistance between each yellow wire, should all be the same about 6 ohms or thereabouts. If one of the phases (windings) has shorted, it may give you some different readings between phases. The important thing to note is any differences should not be there.
7. Check stator AC output from each yellow to chassis/battery earth with engine running at tick over: you should see 50-75Vac at tickover. Bear in mind this is no load, so may throw you by making you think its OK....anything less, stator is najjed
So, with NO charging V at disconnected white plug on rectifier AND good restance measurement of stator AND 50-75 Vac each phase to earth, most likely Rectifier or even something wiring side that is shorting the supply down.
With good charging V at disconnected white plug on rectifier AND either poor/spurious restance measurement of coil OR/AND poor phase Voltage, most likely Stator.
If you can, swap out the rectifier with another, easiest quick test that can give you an instant pointer to problem.
changing stator:
1. Drain oil. This can also be another 'check' as any slick of crapness in the oil could be evidence of a burnt out stator, means the oil cant be used again. Possibly easier to drain the oil to look at it if you suspect the stator.
2. Remove the dry sump/oil filter.
3. clean clean clean the stator cover then remove the 12 allen bolts and sensor.
4. pull cover free (will be magnetic resistance)
5. inspect stator, look for burnt wiring, it'll be obvious, see another post I put up of mine! If there is debris from burnt insulation, check the innner side of the fly wheel, as this will gather all the crap from the stator. You'll need to clean this out. Be careful not to run your finger on the back inner edge of the flywheel, its sharp.
6. You'll need a new gasket (fiver from aprilia dealer)
7. Remove 3 allen bolts holding stator in and one hex bolt holding wiring in. If stator wont come out, flip the cover over onto a wooden bench, lift it then slam it down square, the stator will drop out.
8. Refit is reverse, make sure you lock tight the 3 allen bolts holding stator in and the hex bolt holding wiring in.
9. cover on, sump on, and service.
If you crack a lug on the stator cover, a replacement cover is £160 quid, or you could just alloy braise it with HGS2000, see another post about this. £30 quid and a blow torch....yes I broke mine."