ER-5 Fuel Tap came open

16 mei 2023
12
2
First of all sorry for the English but I'm sure your English is way better than my Dutch...
Hello guys, today this dreaded fuel tap was feeling creative and decided to come up with a new way to f* with me, and the "out" hose fitting head for the carb just came loose from the tap body, luckily I felt my left foot wet/cold and immediately knew it must be fuel (coolant if not generally cool, despite the name) so I pulled over, just before leaving town for a little 10k trip.
After searching the web, I didn't see anyone with this problem, or even discussing removal/assembly, manuals also don't mention this "feature", so I'm not sure what should I do attach this thing and make sure it stays in place and doesn't turn me into the ghost rider. What do you guys think?
Jb weld the outer body and lose the rotation? jb weld the walls of fitting and the body, and squeeze it in?
I also noticed a clear ring mark on the fitting, but using my nail I can tell it's not really a groove, so I doubt there was an O-ring/circlip holding that in place, but what do you think? Could it have been a circlip that got "cold welded" to the groove and then grinded the rest till it became smooth?

Any advice will be appreciated, btw bike was standing for 6 months, this month I adjusted valves, cleaned the carbs, synced them too, and it's back on the road as of yesterday, today I drove it a little harder (in town, max 80km I think) and revved up a few times to get that oil going, and the fitting came loose a few minutes after revving it on a secluded road, so I'm thinking the vibrations shimmied that smooth fitting loose... Will probably 3d print some bushing/washers in TPU in the future to dampen those at the bolts mount, but for now I need a solid seal for my peace of mind.
pictures attached show:
the mount, and the mount hole, the "grooved" fitting, the fitting pushed all the way in just by hand, close-up of that. (if it took this little to go in, it's going out easily again :sisi3: )
 

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Yea I'm going to try clearing that what looks like a groove, and if it happens will fit an O ring and press it in, see if it locks, so disappointed with this failure, too critical to enjoy, imagine if I was riding hard on the highway and all of sudden my leg is on fire? :o
genuine new taps are available on amazon.co.uk at 90 pounds, used ones at 40ish but might have the same issues or require a rebuild kit at least
 
The plan does not show how it originally was. It is sold as one piece.

But, you can clean, en glue it back in. Using the correct glue. And maybe an o ring, that will be hard to find because of the small diameter of the rubber.
 
do you guys know if those are cool with gasoline? not getting dissolved, not anything in the fuel line?
I cleared the groove with a sharp flathead, the groove is too small for any of my O rings, but also the clearance between male and female is too tight to fit a rubber in between (thats what she said).
The groove was covered flush with something crystallized, caramel looking, which points towards some gluing agent, thus not supposed to be disassembled, but as far as I remember that and the main tank spigot always rotated freely which goes against this narrative and points towards an O-ring |(
For now I secured a fat zip tie holding it together so it can't slip out, but I will look into a proper benzine-safe compound to glue these pipe walls together and lose the rotation...
 
Maybe reassemble using Loctite 577?
you know now that you mention it, the resin at the groove does look like loctite 577 when it's dry and old, however I see they have loctite 55 which is a floss with the same properties and solvent resistant, so good with benzine...

it's funny to think that the coolant pipes have bolts pressing them down in addition to the Oring, and this fuel tap has apparently none of those to help keep it together, this a great well designed bike but this damn valve was definitely work of an unpaid intern at kawasaki...
 
it's funny to think that the coolant pipes have bolts pressing them down in addition to the Oring, and this fuel tap has apparently none of those to help keep it together, this a great well designed bike but this damn valve was definitely work of an unpaid intern at kawasaki...
An O-ring is not meant for fixating, only sealing. Loctite has products that are meant to fixate and seal in one product.

I recall having a product selector where one could simply input things like "screwed fitting" or "fitting". Which temperatures, fluids, substrates etc and it would output a couple of options. It's how I found out wich loctite to use to fixate a bearing in a engine.

I can't seem to find that product selector now :/
 
Just a brain fart for the experts here to awnser: Is it possible to thread the piece and screw in a hose nozzle?

That way you're not relying on any adhesive or press fitted items that came loose allready.
Thought about that but I wanted to give the jbweld a shot, before I got into the more destructive option, but yea threading is probably what should have been done in the first place.

An O-ring is not meant for fixing, only sealing. Loctite has products that are meant to fix and seal in one product.

I recall having a product selector where one could simply input things like "screwed fitting" or "fitting". Which temperatures, fluids, substrates etc and it would output a couple of options. It's how I found out wich loctite to use to fixate a bearing in an engine.

I can't seem to find that product selector now:/
Yea indeed, probably should be a precise internal circlip of some sort, that probably broke long time ago and someone repaired with resin, as seen in pictures, for now I went with JBWeld, let's see how it goes, if it goes bad or if the membrane gives up again, I might just buy a new OEM tap instead of getting the repair kit...

just press it back in with a bit of loctite. everything else is crappy solution
I didn't want to wait for the right specialized loctite to come in, and never use it again, so I just cleaned, dried with air gun, coated the male with bison metal-metal epoxy and it's been drying all day, at night I will put the fuel, new oil, and flush the coolant system with more distilled water + vinegar, because it's been coming off brownish, so I can make it to work tomorrow, according to their website it's good for fuel tanks, so it should be good on this too,
my main concern right now is the vibrations, this is my first actual bike, and I know the er-5 has a fame for being loud and wild, kick and scream, but I don't know if it's vibrating more than it should.

1685036869801.png
 
Im pretty sure this will hold, it's strong stuff.
I also used it to hold an ignition coil on my XT500 in place, behind the flywheel.
Long story short, it was a fix from a time that I didn't had the skills to fix it properly.
It's been over 10years, and frankly, I can't bother to fix it properly, it still holds !
The XT500 is a 1 cilinder thumper, so it vibrates alright !
 
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